Some cities just have the perfect way to arrive. For Lucerne, that is without a doubt by water, if you ask us.
We stayed a few days in Vitznau, a small village on Lake Lucerne, and constantly saw boats passing by. Small ferries, sightseeing boats… honestly, as a tourist, it’s almost impossible not to end up on the water here. Lucerne is historically a harbor city as well. So naturally, we took the boat too!
The boat trip takes about an hour, but it doesn’t feel like “transport” at all. It feels more like your excursion already starts the moment you step on board. You sail past small villages along the lake, see green mountain slopes everywhere and, in the distance, more and more snow-covered peaks start to appear. The boat stops several times and zigzags across the lake toward Lucerne (or further away from it if you’re leaving the city).
What makes this route so special is that these boat connections have existed for more than a century. Lake Lucerne was not only important for tourism, but also used to be a major connection between the villages around the lake. Nowadays driving is faster, but for many locals the boats are still an important form of public transport. Some historic steamships have been sailing here since the 19th century and are still in use today. So while you’re relaxing on deck with views of the Alps, you’re literally sailing through a piece of Swiss history.
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An expensive boat trip… but secretly worth it
Honestly, it’s not cheap. A return ticket on the regular ferry service to Lucerne can easily cost over a hundred euros when traveling with multiple people. That definitely makes you pause for a second, especially compared to “just taking the car.” For the two of us traveling from Vitznau to Lucerne and back, we paid 106 CHF. The further you travel, the more expensive it gets, naturally. There are also many sightseeing cruises departing directly from Lucerne itself, purely focused on the views, which are a lot cheaper. For example, take a small cruise boat or even a catamaran. Want the full experience? Then combine a boat trip with a cable car and Mount Pilatus or with a boat ride and train to Rigi Kulm. More on those combinations later.
For us, this was exactly the kind of experience where you think: relaxing, beautiful boat ride, a nice break from driving and super convenient from our stay in Vitznau, where we could simply board the boat straight from the harbor.
The fact that you slowly approach the city via the water makes Lucerne feel much more impressive than simply driving into a parking garage.
Along the way you pass the impressive Bürgenstock cliffs, small harbors, luxury lakeside hotels and villages that seem to be built directly against the mountains. And slowly, you see Lucerne getting closer and closer.
Taking the boat with a baby or kids? Surprisingly relaxing
Something that positively surprised us was how well the boats are set up for traveling with a baby. We simply brought our 6-month-old daughter in her stroller and it honestly worked perfectly fine. There was plenty of space on deck and enough room to park the stroller next to our table. The water was also very calm when we were there, so the boat barely moved around.
We also saw many families with young children onboard. Definitely nice to know if you’re traveling with kids!
Where can you take the boat to Lucerne from?
What many people don’t realize is how extensive the boat network around Lucerne actually is.
Almost the entire Lake Lucerne area is connected by boat routes. That means you can sail to Lucerne from all kinds of places.
Popular departure points include:
- Vitznau (this is also where the train to Rigi Kulm departs)
- Weggis
- Brunnen
- Küssnacht
- Treib
- Flüelen
- Sisikon
Especially from Vitznau and Weggis, you’ll see many people boarding boats toward the city.
And what makes it fun is that many travelers combine different modes of transport here. For example: boat + train, boat + cogwheel railway or boat + cable car. Traveling here feels much more like part of the vacation itself instead of simply “getting from A to B.”
Staying a few days in this region? Then a Swiss Travel Pass can be really useful. It allows unlimited travel by train, boat and bus.
Arriving in Lucerne: instant atmosphere
The boat docks right next to Lucerne’s central station and the modern KKL building. The moment you step off, you immediately understand why this city is so popular. Personally, I don’t really think the KKL building (a museum) fits the appearance of the city, but opinions will probably differ on that.
Lucerne feels compact, lively and easy to navigate at the same time. It’s not one of those huge cities where you constantly deal with metros or long distances. Almost everything is within walking distance and that’s exactly what makes it such a great day trip destination.
The Reuss River flows straight through the center and empties into the bright blue Lake Lucerne. Everywhere you look there are bridges and terraces. The harbor is filled with boats for all kinds of excursions, while the Alps remain visible in the background. Even in the middle of the city, you never really lose that mountain view.
The Chapel Bridge: touristy, but still special
The first place you’ll almost automatically end up at is the famous Kapellbrücke. This wooden bridge from the 14th century is probably the most iconic image of all of Switzerland. And yes, it’s definitely touristy. Still, it’s absolutely worth seeing.
Mainly because the bridge feels much older than you expect. Under the wooden roof, you’ll find old paintings that show stories from the history of Lucerne and Switzerland. What many people don’t know is that the bridge largely burned down in 1993. It was then carefully rebuilt, including many of the historical details.
When you walk across it, you immediately notice how popular this spot is. Especially later in the day, it gets very crowded here. Lots of photos are being taken. Sometimes it’s more fun to watch that happening than joining in yourself.
With a stroller, it can be slightly inconvenient because of a few small stairs. Just a matter of lifting it briefly.
Simply wandering through the Altstadt
What we maybe enjoyed even more than the actual highlights was simply wandering through the old town. Probably also because the historic center is largely car-free. Although there are still enough cars driving along the harbor, so it doesn’t immediately feel completely traffic-free when you arrive by boat or from the station.
Lucerne is filled with narrow streets, pastel-colored buildings, painted facades, small squares and old shop signs.
Especially around Kramgasse and Weinmarkt, you’ll see many historic wall paintings. Some tell stories from the city’s history, while others refer to old professions or religious scenes.
We personally followed a route on AllTrails, but that one went a bit too far into the residential outskirts. If you know where the city highlights are located, I’d honestly recommend simply exploring by yourself. Still handy to have the highlights nearby though.
The Lion Monument: impressive with a story behind it
Just a few minutes’ walk from the center lies the Löwendenkmal, also known as the Lion Monument.
Before visiting, we were kind of like: “okay, it’s probably just a statue, let’s quickly check it out.” But once you’re there, you immediately understand why so many people find it special.
The monument shows a dying lion carved into a rock face and commemorates Swiss soldiers who died during the French Revolution in 1792. It was created in the early 19th century and writer Mark Twain once called it: “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.”
You won’t spend hours here, but it’s definitely worth stopping by. Because it’s located in a small park with water in front of the monument, it doesn’t feel overwhelmingly crowded and you can quietly take it all in.
Glacier Garden Lucerne: interesting if you have more time
Right next to the Lion Monument you’ll also find the Glacier Garden. Here you can see glacial potholes from the Ice Age and learn more about how the landscape around Lucerne was formed. Especially if you’re interested in nature or geology, it’s quite fascinating.
We eventually skipped it because we didn’t want to overplan the day with Celine, but it’s definitely a popular stop in the city.
The Musegg Wall: our biggest surprise
Without a doubt, the biggest surprise of the day for us was the Museggmauer.
This is an old city wall from the 14th century that has remained largely intact. You can climb several towers and once you’re at the top, you’ll have views over Lucerne, the lake, the river and the mountains surrounding the city. Best part? It’s completely free to go up. A nice surprise.
No busy shopping streets or crowds of tourists. Just old stone staircases, wooden towers and incredible views.
Practical things we noticed
We visited on a Sunday at the end of April and you immediately notice that in Switzerland. Many shops are closed. Restaurants and tourist attractions fortunately stay open though, so it was still pleasantly busy with tourists.
We also noticed that Lucerne is very manageable with a stroller, although due to height differences or stairs you occasionally have to make a small detour.
Not a huge issue, but definitely something useful to keep in mind.
Another thing to keep in mind if you arrive by ferry: for us, the last boat back departed shortly after 4:00 PM. So if you want to have dinner in Lucerne, you’ll probably need to choose another form of transport for the return trip.
Parking in Lucerne (if you’re not taking the boat)
If you prefer going by car, there are fortunately plenty of modern parking garages in Lucerne.
Parkhaus Altstadt
This parking garage is located close to the highway exit, meaning you don’t have to drive through the busy city center. They also offer XXL family parking spaces, which is genuinely convenient when traveling with a stroller.
Bahnhofparking (P1, P2 and P3)
The most central option. Located directly underneath the station and next to the boat dock. From here, it’s only a two-minute walk to the Chapel Bridge.
City-Parking
Convenient if you first want to head toward the Lion Monument or the Glacier Garden. Just keep Swiss prices in mind: parking here quickly costs CHF 4 to 6 per hour. For a full day, you’ll easily end up around CHF 40.
Boat trips departing from Lucerne itself
Staying overnight in Lucerne? Then it’s also really fun to take a boat trip directly from the city.
Several cruises depart daily from the quay:
- short scenic cruises across the lake
- longer trips toward Vitznau or Flüelen
- evening cruises
- and combination tours with mountains such as Rigi or Pilatus
Especially the combination of boat + mountain railway is very popular. Once you see the mountains surrounding Lucerne, you immediately understand why.
- Combine a boat trip with a cable car and Mount Pilatus
- Combine a boat trip with the train to Rigi Kulm
We personally visited Rigi Kulm and the views there were absolutely beautiful. You can see the photo above from the summit!
Where to stay in Lucerne
We personally didn’t stay in Lucerne itself, but in the peaceful village of Vitznau on Lake Lucerne. We loved that because it gave us much more of that relaxed Swiss feeling while still allowing us to easily take the boat into the city. But if you prefer staying right in the middle of the atmosphere, Lucerne has plenty of beautiful hotels.
The city’s most famous hotel is without a doubt the iconic Château Gütsch. It sits high above Lucerne and honestly looks like it came straight out of a fairytale, with views over the city and the lake. Definitely a luxury stay though, as rooms here often start around €450 to €500 per night including breakfast.
If you prefer staying super central, then Waldstätterhof Swiss Quality Hotel and Hotel Monopol Lucerne are both excellent options. They’re located close to the station, the Chapel Bridge and the boat docks, allowing you to do almost everything on foot.
Looking for something more affordable but still right in the atmosphere of the old town? Then Hotel Des Alpes is a really nice choice. This hotel is located directly on the Reuss River next to the Chapel Bridge, meaning you’re instantly staying in the most beautiful part of Lucerne. Or compare locations & prices using the map below.
Is Lucerne worth visiting?
Absolutely, if you ask us. I’m normally not the biggest fan of cities while traveling (I prefer nature), but Lucerne was such a great combination of a boat trip, a compact city and fun highlights. Lucerne may not be Switzerland’s biggest or most spectacular city, but it perfectly combines a historic city center, the lake, mountains and boat trips.
For us, it felt much more like a complete experience than just a city trip.
Taking the boat in the morning. Quietly wandering through the city. Getting ice cream by the water. And then sailing back to Vitznau at the end of the afternoon. Sometimes those are simply the best vacation days.
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