After all our adventures along Tasmania’s east coast, our journey brings us to the beautiful Tasman Peninsula. A place where impressive natural phenomena go hand in hand with a rich but sometimes dark history. In this blog I take you to Port Arthur and the surrounding Tasman National Park. This is one of Tasmania’s most visited spots because of the history and because it’s close to the big city (with airport) Hobart.
Contents
The route to the Tasman Peninsula
We drove quite a distance today, but fortunately via a really beautiful route. We had already driven on the Great Eastern Drive earlier. The drive to the Tasman Peninsula is an experience in itself. First the road winds along the picturesque east coast, where you regularly see the Tasman Sea. You also pass numerous wine fields.
The last part of the route goes through the Southern Midlands, beautiful driving!
Natural wonders in Tasman National Park
What makes Tasman National Park so special is the dramatic coastline where the waters from the Southern Ocean crash against the high sea cliffs of the peninsula. This centuries-long battle between water and stone has created spectacular rock formations. And you can see these by hiking, taking a boat trip or at one of the many stops that are easily reachable by car.
Our first stop was Eaglehawk Neck, a narrow isthmus that connects the Tasman Peninsula with the rest of Tasmania. This narrow strip of land has important historical significance: in the past it was guarded by dogs to prevent prisoners from escaping from the Port Arthur penal colony. Nowadays it’s mainly a photo stop for tourists.
Nearby you find the Tasman Arch, a natural bridge eroded by the powerful waves of the Tasman Sea. It is one of the island’s most photographed attractions and after one glance you understand why! Via a short walk from the parking lot you reach the viewpoint to see it.
Not far from there we visited Devil’s Kitchen, a rock formation consisting of a network of narrow gorges, caves and natural basins. The jagged shapes of the rocks indeed make you think of a kitchen with large pans and ovens, which perfectly explains the name. But to be honest: from the viewpoint you have limited visibility. You can just about see it nicely.
Another fascinating place we visited was the Tessellated Pavement. These natural ’tiles’ are the result of the cooling and cracking of volcanic rock, which has been further eroded over time by the forces of wind, water and temperature changes. It looks as if a giant hand has laid a perfect geometric pattern in the rocks!
Port Arthur Historic Site: a dive into the past
After our visit to Sarah Island (the prison island) earlier on our trip, we also wanted to visit Port Arthur Historic Site. This UNESCO World Heritage site is one of Tasmania’s most iconic historical places and gives a poignant picture of Australia’s prison past.
Port Arthur was originally one of the strictest penal colonies of the British Empire, established in 1830, and was used to house convicted criminals. The site offers a well-preserved glimpse into the history of the penal colonies and the harsh life of prisoners in the 19th century.
What stands out is the contrast between the gruesome history and the current ‘peace’ of the place. The ruins lie in a beautiful landscape with green lawns, well-maintained paths and (reconstructed) houses of various important people with the calm waters of the bay in the background. In addition to the prison buildings, the site also includes a chapel, a courthouse, gardens, houses and an old hospital.
It was really beautiful weather during our visit, so besides discovering the stories of this place being very interesting, it was also lovely to explore everything on foot. The site is large enough to easily spend half a day there, depending on whether you read all the information boards. Otherwise you are through in a little over 2 hours.
The history of Port Arthur also has a more recent dark page. In 1996 the largest shooting in Australian history took place here, something that is rarely talked about. Many local residents experienced this event and prefer not to be reminded of this drama. A visit to Port Arthur therefore mainly focuses on the colonial history.
The Unzoo: a special encounter with Tasmanian animals
Before heading to the airport for our departure from Tasmania, we made one more stop at The Unzoo. Instead of a traditional zoo where animals often live in limited environments, the Unzoo’s concept is based on the “un-zoo concept”. This means that the animals are kept as much as possible in their natural environment, respecting their freedom and behavior as much as possible.
The animals are not forced into cages or limited spaces, but can move in an open, more spacious environment. The Unzoo strongly focuses on native Australian animals, such as wallabies, Tasmanian devils, birds and kangaroos.
For my wife a dream came true: we could pet and feed the friendly kangaroos! In the wild you normally don’t do this. These animals are tame due to the old zoo concept and no longer suitable for life in the wild. Fortunately they enjoyed getting some nice food from us!
The Tasmanian devils were also fascinating to see – these unique predators only occur in the wild in Tasmania. Their population has declined sharply. From about a million to just a few tens of thousands. These sanctuaries are therefore also there to strengthen their population again and specifically to release resistant animals back into nature. Due to the contagious tumor disease from which many Tasmanian devils have died, this is unfortunately necessary. Look it up online if you want to know more. The photos are gruesome to see.
Our stay at Stewarts Bay Lodge
We stayed overnight at Stewarts Bay Lodge, in a spacious 1 Bedroom Bush View Deluxe Spa Chalet. After a day full of impressions it was lovely to return to this comfortable apartment with a terrace overlooking the bush.
In the evening we decided to walk to the beach with some drinks and snacks and enjoy the afternoon sun. A perfect way to spend our last evening in Tasmania, listening to the gentle lapping of the waves and reminiscing about all the adventures we had experienced.
Another advantage of this lodge: you can walk to Port Arthur. You walk straight into the historic site. Don’t forget to walk to the visitor center to buy your ticket or scan it if you bought it in advance.
By the way, you can buy a combi-ticket with 10% discount for both activities via Unzoo.
Practical tips for your visit
Timing
- Plan at least a full day for Tasman National Park, but preferably 2 full days if you also want to do a long hike.
- Reserve at least 3-4 hours for your visit to Port Arthur Historic Site.
- If you want to hike to Cape Hauy (10.1 km, 3-4 hours) or Cape Raoul (15.6 km, 4-5 hours), start early.
- Visit the Tessellated Pavement at low tide for the best view.
Good preparation
- Check the opening hours of Port Arthur Historic Site (they also offer evening tours).
- Not a hiker, but want to see the impressive coast? There are also boat trips!
- Consider a guided tour through Port Arthur for more historical context.
- Plan your route strategically – there is a lot to see in a relatively compact area.
Is this destination worth it?
Absolutely! The Tasman Peninsula offers a unique combination of spectacular nature and rich history that you won’t find anywhere else in Tasmania. Whether you come for:
- The breathtaking coastal landscapes
- The fascinating rock formations
- The rich and sometimes dark history
- The unique wildlife experiences
- Or simply to enjoy the peace and beauty
The Tasman Peninsula and Port Arthur form a perfect finale (or start) to a round trip through Tasmania. The contrasts between the beautiful nature and human history make this place a wonderful destination.
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