Hiking in Montenegro: tackle the Peaks of the Balkans Trail on your own

To be honest: I didn’t know much about hiking in Montenegro beforehand. But after this trip, all I can say is – wow. Montenegro is truly one of those countries you need to discover slowly. On foot. Backpack on, hiking boots tied, straight into the mountains. And that’s exactly what we did on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, a route that took us right through Montenegro, Albania and Kosovo. A stunning multi-day trek you can simply hike within Europe.

Can you hike this trail independently from Montenegro? Absolutely!

For anyone wondering whether you can do this trek without a guide: yes, absolutely! You really don’t need an expensive group tour or a guide. In fact – it’s wonderful to set your own pace. No morning rush with other hikers, just you, your hiking buddy (or not), the mountains and occasionally a cow on the path.

We downloaded the GPX files on our phones beforehand and it worked perfectly. Everything is well marked, and at the guesthouses you often get extra local tips. Sometimes literally drawn in the sand with a stick, but hey – it worked.

The GPX files show you all hiking routes between every hotel & guesthouse on the map below.
> Get the Balkan Trail travel guide with GPX files

What to expect along the way

The full loop is a solid 192 kilometres. You can hike the entire trail or choose just a section. We started in Plav (Montenegro) and walked from there via Vusanje across the border into Albania. In Theth and Valbona you’ll find yourself staring open-mouthed at the valleys. Crossing them? Yes. And sometimes gasping for air. But mostly: enjoying every second.

In Dobërdol, we slept in a mountain hut on a remote alpine meadow – no wifi, no phone signal, but fresh yoghurt and the most beautiful starry sky ever. Through Kosovo we eventually made our way back into Montenegro, with the final stop in Babino Polje, where we collapsed onto the terrace completely exhausted but so satisfied.

Sleeping & eating: surprisingly good!

Along the trail you’ll find a surprising number of cosy guesthouses. Often run by local families who feed you soups, stews and homemade rakija (careful with that one). Not everything is listed on Booking.com, so feel free to ask around on the trail or bring a tent just in case. Many hikers simply camp next to a guesthouse – if you ask nicely, you can use the toilet or join them for dinner.

Best time to hike the Peaks of the Balkans Trail

We hiked in summer and it was perfect. Between June and September the weather is usually stable and most guesthouses are open. In spring there is often still snow and planning becomes more complicated. In high season (August) the popular villages can get busier, so it’s smart to reserve occasionally.

More tips for hiking in Montenegro:

• Download GPX files ahead of time – they truly are your best friend on the trail. You’ll find them in our guide!
• Don’t rely blindly on online booking platforms; many places are old-school and offline.
• Don’t feel like planning everything yourself? There are great trail guides with routes and accommodation tips – like ours for example!
• Don’t forget to bring cash. You can’t pay by card everywhere, especially not in those charming places where a donkey brings your breakfast.

Montenegro truly surprised us. The combination of rugged mountains, welcoming people, surprisingly good food and the freedom to decide your own pace – that’s what makes hiking here so special. And the Peaks of the Balkans Trail? Tough, but stunning. If you’ve ever doubted visiting this region: go. Don’t let tour operators convince you that you need a guide. You can do this on your own. Truly.