Koutouloufari is one of those Greek villages where you immediately think: yes, I want to stay here. One long street (okay, with a fork) with nice terraces, shops, an authentic Greek feel and dozens of cats lying everywhere (that’s also part of Greece a bit). And all that on a mountainside with a view of the sea. We stayed here for a full week during our holiday on Crete and what a nice spot this was. Ideal if you want some liveliness, but don’t want to stay in busy Chersonissos.
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Koutouloufari is a lively village without mass tourism
Koutouloufari is located just above busy Chersonissos, but you hardly notice that. No partying youngsters, no loud clubs, but lots of atmosphere, coziness and good food. See it as one long street where all the restaurants and hotels are located, but with the coziness of Greece. In the village you find dozens of restaurants (often with rooftop terraces), cafes and small shops. In the evening it really comes to life, without feeling massive. Even in high season, because I was here at the end of July. Mainly couples, families and quiet holidaymakers come here to spend their evenings.
The nice thing is: although you’re not on the beach, many hotels and apartments do have a sea view. Most accommodations are against the mountain, so you often look straight out over the bay near Chersonissos. You often pay just a little extra for this view. And that view at sunset, with a glass of wine or beer… yes, that makes you happy. Most restaurants know this too!
Chersonissos is within walking distance (downhill though!)
Want some more bustle anyway, then you’re there in no time. In half an hour you walk downhill to Chersonissos. That town is especially known as a party town among (Dutch) youngsters, and to be honest: you see that too. Big shops, bright neon lights, dozens of bars and clubs along the boulevard. But… you also find a nice harbor with restaurants right on the water. We actually found the food in Koutouloufari better. You pay a bit more and the food is a bit more varied. But having a drink here one evening is extra fun.
Walking back uphill to Koutouloufari is fine if you feel like a little workout. No desire? Then just take a taxi. And there are plenty driving in the busy streets of Chersonissos. A ride usually costs between 10 and 20 euros with an official taxi. Ask your hotel for the phone number of a reliable driver if needed.
Is Koutouloufari busy in high season?
We were there during the construction holiday and I really found it manageable. Of course it’s not a deserted mountain village in summer, but you certainly don’t have the feeling you’re walking in a crowd of people. We could get a table at all restaurants, even when we went to eat around 7:30 – 8 pm. And often we even got a table with a view. Not bad, right?
If you have favorite restaurants, make sure to make a reservation. This can easily be done a day in advance. Then you’re guaranteed a nice spot with a view!
Eating, drinking and… cats!
One of the nicest things about Koutouloufari are the restaurants. You have so much choice here – from traditional Greek tavernas to more modern kitchens. We really ate deliciously and the atmosphere is relaxed everywhere. And oh yes: you’re never alone. In every street or restaurant a cat pops up. Some crawl cozily on your lap, others just chill on a wall. It kind of belongs there.
Fun things to do in the area around Koutouloufari
Want to see more of Crete? Then Koutouloufari is an ideal base. Rent a car (that can already be done for a few tens per day and right from the village) and explore the island. Think of a day trip to the palace of Knossos, the city of Heraklion, or the beautiful beaches in the east. Also fun: a boat trip to Spinalonga or an afternoon at the freshwater lake of Kournas.
Besides the immediate surroundings of Koutouloufari, there are also many well-known highlights on Crete that you can easily visit. These are our favorites:
🛥️ Spinalonga (the leprosy island)
A small island near Elounda, with an impressive past as a leper colony. You sail there in a few minutes by boat and can walk around among the old houses and fortress walls.
Read also: Leprosy island Spinalonga: an island full of stories and history near Crete
🏝️ Chrissi Island
Tropical white sand, turquoise water and a relaxed atmosphere: this uninhabited island is off the south coast near Ierapetra and accessible by boat. A fun day trip with beautiful views!
🏰 Palace of Knossos
Fancy some Greek mythology? Then visit Knossos, the famous Minoan palace near Heraklion. According to legend, the Minotaur roamed here in the labyrinth.
⛰️ Lassithi plateau & Dikteon cave
A green plain with authentic villages and rotating windmills. You can drive beautifully here and stop at small tavernas. Also visit the cave where Zeus was supposedly born according to the myths.
🌊 Samaria Gorge
For the avid hikers: the Samaria Gorge is one of Europe’s longest gorges. The route is tough (16 km), but you’re rewarded with rugged nature and beautiful views. This is about 3.5 hours (!) drive from Koutouloufari… sorry!
🏙️ Rethymnon & Chania
Two charming towns with Venetian influences. Think colorful houses, harbors with fishing boats and lots of nice restaurants and boutiques. Perfect for a day of strolling.
⛴️ Boat trip to Santorini
Always wanted to see Santorini? From Crete you can do a day excursion by boat. It is a long day, but you get white-blue houses, steep cliffs and volcanic views in return. Keep in mind quite a few tourists though.
Read also our other blog: The best of Southern Santorini
Staying overnight in Koutouloufari
The offer of hotels and apartments is large, from small-scale to a bit more luxurious. Most are on the mountain and have a nice pool and sea view. We stayed in Esperides Resort Crete. A super nice spot with our own apartment. You’re right at the beginning of the cozy street of Koutouloufari. There are 2 pools (1 is Adults only, where we mainly stayed) and super friendly staff!
Other recommendations in the village are for example Marni Village or the more luxurious Galaxy Suites Boutique Resort. You’re everywhere within walking distance of the restaurants, so that glass of ouzo is fine. 😉
Looking for a lively but still quiet Greek village on Crete, with good food, beautiful views and a relaxed atmosphere? Then Koutouloufari is a bullseye. You’re close to the bustle, but sleep in peace. And with all those cats, tavernas and sunsets you actually don’t want to leave anymore.
