Some places you visit stay with you. Because they are beautiful, yes, but sometimes also because they touch you in a way you did not expect. That is how it was for us with Spinalonga. A small island just off the coast of Eastern Crete, with a heavy past. For many years, people who were banned from the mainland because they had leprosy lived here. You can still feel it when you walk around. And yet it is also stunning, with sea views, old ruins and an atmosphere that is hard to put into words.
We visited Spinalonga during our holiday in Koutouloufari. From there, you drive in about an hour to the village of Plaka, where you can hop straight onto a boat. But more on that later – first, a step back in time.
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From Venetian fortress to leper colony
Spinalonga was originally a Venetian fortress from the 16th century. You can still see it in the thick walls, old gates and its position: strategically perched high on a rock in the middle of the bay of Elounda. At that time, it was mainly meant to keep pirates and Ottomans out. But the real history – the side you feel when you walk around – only starts in 1903.
In that year, Spinalonga became a leper colony. People who were infected with leprosy were sent to the island, often against their will. They had to leave their family, their home, their entire life behind. Once on the island, they lived in poverty, sometimes without medical care. Only later did doctors arrive, along with a hospital and even a small community with shops, a café and a little school. That really blew my mind: that in a place like this, people still tried to make something of their lives.
The leper colony remained in use until 1957. After that, the island was abandoned and slowly fell into decay. Only in the 1980s and 1990s was Spinalonga cautiously restored. And now it is one of the most popular sights on Crete.
What will you see on Spinalonga itself?
Spinalonga is not big, but there is surprisingly much to discover. As soon as you walk through the thick stone gate – the infamous Dante’s Gate – it feels like stepping into an open-air museum. You wander through narrow streets with crumbling walls, past houses where dozens of people once lived. Some buildings have been partly restored, which makes it easier to picture what life here looked like. There is a small church with beautiful frescoes, an abandoned hospital where you can still look into the rooms, and a simple cemetery on the edge of the island. Be sure to follow the path up towards the old fortress wall. From there, you have panoramic views over the bay of Elounda – the contrast between that peace and the story of the island is almost surreal.
You can walk all the way around the island in about an hour, including the path that takes you along the top of the fortress wall. From up there, you have gorgeous views over the bay of Elounda, with crystal-clear blue water and mountains in the background. A strange contrast with the tragic story of the island itself.
What touched me most was the cemetery. Small, simple, but so quiet. And the thought that people are buried here who were completely cut off from the rest of the world purely because they were ill… that really stays with you.
The stories behind Spinalonga’s walls
What truly makes Spinalonga special is not just the ruins and the views, but especially the stories that come with them. For many years, people who had leprosy and were banished from the mainland lived here. Families were torn apart, often without being able to say goodbye. Yet the island’s inhabitants tried to make the best of it. A small community even grew, with a school, a bakery and a café. Many of these stories came to life for me when I read the book The Island by Victoria Hislop – a novel about a woman who returns to Crete and discovers that her family ties to Spinalonga go much deeper than she thought. The book is partly based on true events and added an extra layer of meaning to our visit. Highly recommended if you are planning to visit the island, or if you have just returned and want to let the experience sink in.
How do you get to Spinalonga?
You can only reach Spinalonga by boat. The easiest and fastest way is from the village of Plaka. This lies literally opposite the island. From the small harbour, boats depart every fifteen minutes or so and take you to Spinalonga in about 10 minutes. You pay for the crossing (around €10 return) and then also an entrance fee for the island itself (about €8 per adult).
Another option is a boat trip from Elounda, a little further away. That crossing takes about 20 minutes and costs a bit more, but it is also a beautiful route. Some boats make a swimming stop along the way. From Agios Nikolaos, you can also join an organised tour with a guide, but those often take longer and are a bit more crowded.
Booking a boat trip to the former leper island
You do not have to arrange a boat trip weeks in advance. In Plaka or Elounda, you can usually just buy a ticket on the spot.
If you want to be sure you do not have to wait (especially in high season), you can book online via platforms such as GetYourGuide or through your hotel. Advantage of booking online: you are sure of your preferred time slot and can shop around for the best price.
Some tours combine Spinalonga with swimming or a lunch stop, so take a look at what suits you. That way, you turn it into a full-day outing, which is also what we ended up doing. Yes, it is a bit busier, but hey, that is what you can expect when you visit a Greek island in high season like we did.
Taking the ferry to Spinalonga on your own
You can simply drive (or take a taxi) to Plaka or Elounda and buy a ticket there for one of the boats. In Plaka, they often depart every 10–15 minutes and take about 10 minutes to reach the island. You get off there, pay your entrance fee and then wander around at your own pace. No guide needed!
If you do want some explanation but prefer not to be in a group, you could consider downloading an audio tour or taking a guidebook with you. The island is quite small and easy to navigate, so you will definitely be able to find your way around on your own.
More practical tips for Spinalonga
- Decide for yourself whether you want to join a tour or visit the island independently. If you have a rental car, that is easy to do. With an organised tour, you will be picked up at your accommodation.
- Bring water and sunscreen. There is hardly any shade on the island.
- Wear good shoes, as the paths are uneven and you will be walking uphill. You can decide for yourself whether you are fine with flip-flops.
- We liked going with a guide, because an island like this gains so much more meaning than when you simply walk around and read the information boards. You are making the effort to get there, so you do not want to be done in no time.
Staying overnight nearby
We visited Spinalonga from Agios Nikolaos during an earlier holiday. More recently, we stayed in an even cosier place: Koutouloufari, a charming mountain village above Chersonissos. It is about an hour’s drive, but easily done with a rental car or on an organised tour. Along the way, you also get beautiful views over the bay.
If you want to stay closer, Agios Nikolaos is also a great option. This town lies on a crystal-clear blue lake, has a lively promenade and offers a mix of culture and beach. Elounda is also nearby and is a bit quieter, but still very atmospheric.
