Switzerland

Grindelwald First: stunning First Cliff Walk and Bachalpsee above Grindelwald

Grindelwald First: stunning First Cliff Walk and Bachalpsee above Grindelwald

Grindelwald First is one of those places you see so often that you probably think: I need to go there too. The First Cliff Walk is world-famous, the gondola, the mountain views, the hike to Bachalpsee… it all looks pretty perfect.

And yes, that also means it has become touristy, especially the First Cliff Walk. And yes, it is expensive. But after our day at Grindelwald First, we can also say: it really was beautiful. Just make sure you add a hike, because that helps you escape the crowds a little.

The biggest mistake you can make here? Going up only for the First Cliff Walk, taking a photo and then heading straight back down. You would miss the Bachalpsee hike, which is a beautiful walk from spring to autumn. For us, most of the fun was actually in that hike, the remaining snow and the views that just kept going. And yes, this hike was busy too, but it makes your visit high in the mountains much longer. And with what you pay for the ride up, you might as well make the most of it!

Grindelwald First in short

Grindelwald First is located above the village of Grindelwald, in the Jungfrau region. You reach it by gondola from the village. At the top you will find the famous First Cliff Walk, viewing platforms, adventure activities and the hike to Bachalpsee.

We visited Grindelwald First at the end of April, just before the summer season really started. There was still snow at the top, Bachalpsee was even still frozen, and yet we thought it was one of the most beautiful days of our Switzerland trip.

Good to know in advance: Grindelwald First is not a cheap stop. The gondola alone costs quite a lot. But if you really take your time, it does not feel like “paying a lot for one quick photo”, but more like a complete day in the mountains. You can also head straight into the restaurant at the top, enjoy the view and avoid having to go down immediately.

Parking in Grindelwald

We parked at Parkplatz Pfingstegg. This is a fairly large open car park in Grindelwald, where you pay around 1 CHF per hour and can simply pay by card.

We arrived near the end of the morning, though. And you notice that immediately. It filled up quite quickly and there was a very clear touristy, busy atmosphere. Cars driving around looking for spaces, people trying to figure out where they need to go and hikers with backpacks everywhere.

If you are visiting Grindelwald First in high season, I would definitely go early. An alternative is parking at Grindelwald Terminal and taking the bus or train from there towards the Firstbahn. That may sound a little less romantic, but it is often much more relaxing than driving around the village looking for a parking space. The bus is included with your parking ticket.

If you arrive by public transport, you are in good hands in Switzerland anyway. Taking the train to Grindelwald and then walking or taking the bus to the Firstbahn is a great option.

Taking the gondola to Grindelwald First

Taking the gondola to Grindelwald First

From the village, you board the gondola to First. It all goes surprisingly smoothly. It feels a bit like a ski lift: you step into a small gondola, the door closes and you slowly float upwards.

The ride takes around 20 to 25 minutes, but feels shorter because you have views the entire time. Below you, Grindelwald becomes smaller and smaller, while the mountains ahead seem to get closer.

We paid 144 CHF in total, so 72 CHF per person for a return ticket. That is simply a lot of money. One useful thing: your ticket is valid all day and you can get off at intermediate stations such as Bort.

Always check the current prices, opening hours and last gondola down before your visit. When we were there, the final gondola went down at around 16:15. This changes depending on the season, so this is not something you want to guess.

Visiting Grindelwald First with a baby

At the ticket office, we got a small reality check. The employee asked whether we were going up with a 6-month-old baby and told us to pay close attention to her ears and how she reacted.

That gave us one of those moments where you think: okay, are we really going to do this?

Our daughter had already been at around 1,700 metres earlier that week and everything had gone well. So we decided to try it, but take things slowly. We brought a pacifier and bottle to help with the pressure on her ears and deliberately planned a stop at Bort.

We got off there for a while, had something to eat and mainly checked how she was doing. Everything was fine. After that, we continued up to First. In the end, she slept for a large part of the time in the baby carrier.

Are you also travelling with a baby? You know your own child best. Build up slowly, keep a close eye on how things are going and do not stay at the top unnecessarily long if you notice it has been enough.

First impression at the top: the views slowly sink in

What we noticed when we reached the top is that the view does not hit you all at once with a huge “wow”. You actually grow into it slowly.

During the gondola ride, the landscape keeps changing. At the bottom you can still see the village, followed by alpine meadows, forests and eventually more snow and rougher mountains. First is located at around 2,160 metres and you immediately notice the difference. The air feels fresher, the view gets bigger and everything suddenly feels a little more serious.

At the end of April, there was still quite a lot of snow at the top. Not everywhere, but enough to give the landscape a wintery touch. In my opinion, that actually made the hike later on more fun, although it also caused some wet and muddy sections.

First Cliff Walk: very touristy, but still fun

First Cliff Walk: very touristy, but still fun

The First Cliff Walk is probably the best-known part of Grindelwald First. You walk along a metal walkway attached to the rock face, ending at a platform that hangs above the drop.

And yes, this is also where you immediately see the most people. There was a clear queue at the famous photo spot. Of course, everyone wants that one photo with the mountains and the drop in the background.

We skipped that queue. There are enough other places where you can take beautiful photos and simply enjoy the views without waiting.

The First Cliff Walk is fun to include, but do not expect a long walk. Think of it more as a short highlight at the top of First. Exciting enough to remember, but not the reason why we thought this day was so beautiful.

Bachalpsee hike: this is the beautiful walk

Bachalpsee hike: this is the beautiful walk

After the First Cliff Walk, we started the hike to Bachalpsee. The walk to Bachalpsee is around 6 kilometres return and mostly follows a wide gravel path. By Swiss standards, we found the trail fairly easy to walk.

The beginning involves some climbing. It is not extremely difficult, but you definitely notice that you are walking at altitude. After that it gets a little easier, although the trail still gently climbs and descends at times. So it is not a flat walk, but it is not a technical mountain hike either.

We did the hike with our daughter in the baby carrier. That worked well, but a stroller really is not an option here. The path is wide, but because of the gravel, remaining snow, mud and elevation changes, it is not suitable for a stroller.

Crowds on the Bachalpsee route

We visited at the end of April, just before the summer season really started. Even then, it was already fairly busy. The trail is wide and long enough that people naturally spread out. So you rarely feel like you are walking in a line. We thought that was a big difference compared with the First Cliff Walk, where the crowds feel much more concentrated.

If you want more peace and quiet, go as early as possible. Especially in summer, I imagine it gets much busier here, particularly on clear days.

Hiking at altitude: snow, water and silence

During the Bachalpsee hike, you really start to understand how beautiful this place is. You walk high in the mountains, with views of snowy peaks, meltwater next to the path and occasionally a waterfall in the distance.

Along the way, we suddenly spotted mountain goats on the rocks. One of those moments when you automatically stop for a while. Not necessarily to take a photo, but simply to look. A photo is often not much use anyway, unless you have a camera that can zoom really well.

This hike is not only about the destination. The route itself is already beautiful. You constantly have views along the way, so it never feels as though you are simply walking towards “the lake”.

Arriving at Bachalpsee

After around an hour of walking, we arrived at Bachalpsee. And yes… it was completely frozen.

Bachalpsee is normally famous for the reflections of the mountains in the water. We did not get that view at all. No bright blue mountain lake with a perfect reflection, but snow, ice and a kind of winter silence.

We still thought it was beautiful. Maybe even because it was different from what we expected and because we had not seen something like this very often on our travels. It gave the place a rough and peaceful feeling at the same time. Even without the reflection, it is a beautiful place to sit down for a while and look around. But also a reason to come back here in summer one day!

If you really want to see that famous mirror reflection, you need to visit later in the season and hope for very little wind. With clouds, mist or wind, Bachalpsee immediately looks different. The weather has a big influence here.

How much time do you need at Grindelwald First?

We spent around two to two and a half hours at the top, including our stop, the First Cliff Walk and the hike to Bachalpsee. With a baby, we also felt that was about the maximum at this altitude.

Without a baby, I would plan more time. For the gondola, First Cliff Walk, Bachalpsee hike and a nice lunch at Berggasthaus First, allow half a day to almost a full day, depending on your pace and what time you start.

Activities at Grindelwald First

Grindelwald First is not just about hiking. You can also do all kinds of adventure activities here, such as the First Flyer, First Glider, Mountain Cart and Trottibike.

It all looked really fun. From Bort, for example, you can head downhill on a mountain cart or Trottibike. With the First Flyer or First Glider, the experience is more like flying above the mountain landscape.

We skipped these activities because we were travelling with a baby. Someone in front of us tried to book one of them and was immediately told that everything was already full. So if you want to do these activities, book in advance or arrive early.

Eating at Berggasthaus First

Berggasthaus First is located at the top near the First station. When we walked past, the terrace looked really inviting. People were having lunch there with views of the mountains.

We continued fairly quickly, mainly because we did not want to stay at altitude too long with our daughter. But if you have more time, this looks like a lovely place for lunch or coffee after the Bachalpsee hike.

Check the webcams beforehand

One tip you really should not skip: check the Grindelwald First webcams before you go. You can immediately see whether it is clear, whether there are clouds and whether you will actually have a view.

Because without the views, Grindelwald First is a lot less impressive. You still pay a lot of money for the gondola, but miss exactly what you came here for.

We were lucky with sunshine and blue skies. One of those days when you already think at breakfast: today we need to go up.

Back down to Grindelwald

After the hike, we basically headed straight back to the gondola. The descent again takes around 20 to 25 minutes and gives you more beautiful views of Grindelwald and the surrounding mountains.

We gave our daughter another bottle in the gondola for her ears, but she actually did not seem bothered at all. She had slept for most of the hike and came out of the baby carrier happy again once we reached the bottom.

After this day, we drove back to our apartment. It was still sunny, so we decided to do something that had been on our list for a long time: open the champagne from our wedding. It had been sitting in the cupboard for almost two years.

So there we were, sitting in the sunshine with Swiss cheese from the Appenzell region and mountain views. Maybe that was secretly the perfect ending to the day.

Grindelwald First with children or a baby

Grindelwald First with children or a baby

Grindelwald First is possible with children, but you need to plan smartly. With a baby, we found it quite manageable, mainly because we took things slowly and did not stay at the top too long.

A baby carrier is ideal. I would not bring a stroller for the Bachalpsee hike. For just the area around First and possibly Bort, it might still work, but as soon as you really start hiking it becomes inconvenient.

With older children, Bort is especially fun because there is a large alpine playground. The adventure activities can also be interesting, but check the age and height requirements carefully beforehand.

Combine Grindelwald First with other places

Grindelwald First is easy to combine with other places in the Jungfrau region, but I would not try to fit too much into one day. Especially if you also do the Bachalpsee hike, you will already spend a large part of the day here.

If you are staying in Grindelwald, the Glacier Canyon Grindelwald is a nice extra stop. Completely different from First: lower down, rougher and more of a gorge experience.

If you are also staying around Lauterbrunnen, you can combine this day in your itinerary with the Northface Trail near Mürren, Trümmelbach Falls or Lampaca Farm in Lauterbrunnen.

Travelling further towards Kandersteg? Then the Oeschinensee hike from Kandersteg and Blausee near Kandersteg are also beautiful additions to your Switzerland itinerary.

Where to stay in the Jungfrau region

Where to stay near Grindelwald First

If you want to visit Grindelwald First, staying in or around Grindelwald is very convenient. You are then close to the Firstbahn and can start early. And that really makes a difference here, especially when it comes to crowds at the gondola and First Cliff Walk.

What many people do not know: you can even stay overnight up on the mountain. That is a completely different experience from sleeping down in the village.

Staying on the mountain: special and peaceful

Berggasthaus First is located directly next to the top station of the Firstbahn, at more than 2,100 metres above sea level. Do not expect a luxury design hotel, but rather a simple mountain stay with one huge advantage: the views and the peace once all the day visitors have gone.

We think this would be especially nice if you want to do the Bachalpsee hike early, experience sunrise or sunset, or simply spend a night high up in the mountains.

Alpinhotel Bort is located at the intermediate Bort station. It is a little lower and more practical if you are travelling with children. You are already in the mountains, but not right at the busiest spot at the top. It is also nice if you want to start the day slowly without having to travel all the way up from Grindelwald first.

Staying in Grindelwald: the most practical choice

Most travellers choose a hotel or apartment in Grindelwald itself. It is also the easiest option. You have restaurants, shops, the train and the Firstbahn nearby. Especially if you are staying several days in the region, Grindelwald is a great base.

If you are looking for something relatively simple and central, Hotel Tschuggen is an interesting option. It is not a luxury hotel, but it is convenient if you mainly plan to be out exploring and want to stay close to the centre and the Firstbahn.

In the mid-range category, Eiger Mountain & Soul Resort and Hotel Spinne are popular choices. Both are centrally located in Grindelwald and are good options if you want comfort but do not necessarily need to sleep high up on the mountain.

If you prefer something more traditional with a Swiss atmosphere, take a look at Hotel Gletschergarten. This family-run hotel has existed since 1899 and feels more traditional than sleek and modern.

For luxury, Bergwelt Grindelwald, Belvedere Swiss Quality Hotel and Romantik Hotel Schweizerhof are beautiful options. Think wellness facilities, larger rooms and mountain views. Not cheap, but then again, very little in Grindelwald really is.

What would we do if we returned? Spend one night in Grindelwald and, if the budget allows, one night higher up at Bort or First. That way you get both experiences: the practical side of the village and the peace of the mountain once the day visitors have gone.

View hotels and apartments in Grindelwald via Booking.com

Activities and tickets at Grindelwald First

Do you want to arrange the gondola, First Flyer, First Glider or other activities in advance? Below you can already see what is available around Grindelwald First.

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Practical tips for Grindelwald First and Bachalpsee

  • Check the webcams. Without the views, Grindelwald First is much less special.
  • Go early. Especially in high season, this helps with parking, the gondola and the First Cliff Walk.
  • Walk further than the Cliff Walk. The Bachalpsee hike really made the day worthwhile for us.
  • Bring good shoes. The path is wide, but in spring snow and mud can make it slippery.
  • Check the last gondola down. The time changes depending on the season.
  • Book adventure activities in advance. First Flyer, First Glider, Mountain Cart and Trottibike can fill up quickly.
  • Going with a baby is possible, but take it slowly. We deliberately stopped at Bort to see how things were going.
  • A stroller is not suitable for the Bachalpsee hike. Use a baby carrier if you are hiking with a baby or toddler.

Is Grindelwald First worth it?

Yes, but not if you only go up for the First Cliff Walk. In that case, we think it is expensive and maybe a little overrated.

If you combine the Cliff Walk with the Bachalpsee hike, lunch at the top or one of the activities, Grindelwald First suddenly becomes a really great day out. For us, the experience was not about that one photo spot, but about the hike, the quieter moments and the views along the way.

Grindelwald First is busy and expensive, but also impressive and varied. If you have a clear day and take the time to walk further than the first viewing platform, I would definitely include this place in your route through the Jungfrau region.

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