Snorkeling with manta rays, spending the night in a beachfront bungalow, and being shaken over terrible roads on your way to the most stunning viewpoints of this unique island in Indonesia – welcome to Nusa Penida! Officially, Nusa Penida is part of the province of Bali, but geographically it is a separate island located southeast of the ‘main island’ of Bali. It makes sense that many tourists take the boat from Bali to Nusa Penida. I’ll tell you more about it in this blog!
Contents
First impression & our stay
Nusa Penida immediately feels different from Bali. Poorer, dustier, and above all: rougher. The roads are an adventure in themselves, with deep potholes, sharp turns, and slopes where your car gets shaken violently. Most roads are only suitable for one car at a time. Taxi drivers don’t seem to mind – half the island seems to consist of them on the roads.
Fortunately, we’re welcomed at a beautiful stay at Sea La Vie, a charming resort with bungalows by the sea. We spend three nights in a beach hut overlooking the ocean, with an infinity pool facing the bay. Not bad at all!
After an evening of playing games, we go to bed. At 04:30 AM, however, we’re woken up by loud prayer coming from a nearby mosque. A bit of a shock for Western tourists, but also a reminder that Indonesia is the largest Islamic country in the world – even on a predominantly Hindu island like Bali. This mosque is located right in the village where you arrive by boat, so you can’t really avoid it as a tourist.
Highlights of the west coast
On our second day, our west coast tour is planned. Our driver is ready before 08:00 AM. Distances on Nusa Penida may look small, but the roads are so bad that it still takes a long time to get anywhere. Think of the program The World’s Most Dangerous Roads, but tropical. It’s wise to arrange your own private driver. This driver will stay with you the whole day. Of course, you can also explore the island by scooter, but not all routes are pleasant to ride.
You can book the highlights of the west coast directly as a day tour!
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Angel’s Billabong
Our first stop is a natural infinity pool with clear green-blue water. It forms at low tide, when the sea temporarily pulls back. You used to be allowed to swim here, but due to treacherous waves, it is now forbidden.
Broken Beach
Just a short walk away lies this round bay with a natural rock bridge to the sea. It almost looks man-made, so perfectly shaped. We’re here early, so we can enjoy it in peace. We found Broken Beach surprisingly beautiful!
Kelingking Beach
From the viewpoint above, you see how a rock formation resembles a T-Rex. The white beach below lies isolated in a bright blue bay. The descent is steep and challenging, so we stick to the breathtaking view from the top.
That intense hike will soon be a thing of the past due to the construction of a large lift. That this place is popular is no secret, which is why they began building a 182-meter high lift to the beach in 2023. At the moment, you still have to make a strenuous hike (especially back up) to reach it. Many locals fear that crowds will increase dramatically and that this place will lose its charm, triggering overtourism similar to what some regions on neighboring Bali suffer from. Although this project promises economic growth, it also raises questions about environmental and community impact. It’s yet another example of construction aimed at tourists.
Crystal Bay
For a relaxed ending to the day, we head to Crystal Bay. Here we rent sunbeds and an umbrella. Expect to overpay… but you don’t have many options here. I choose to snorkel among the colorful fish. There are many (friendly) stray dogs around. Around 3:00 PM it gets busier, and we return to the hotel to unwind by the pool.
Snorkeling at Manta Point
Time for adventure at sea in search of the famous manta rays! Around 09:00 AM, we board a snorkel boat heading for Manta Point. Here, giant manta rays live, reaching up to 8 meters wide. They are harmless and mainly eat plankton. The sea is often rough at this location, so some snorkeling experience is helpful. We spot a total of five manta rays – a bucket list moment!
As in many places in Indonesia, Manta Point is quite touristy. Don’t be surprised if you’re snorkeling with 50 people (or even more) at the same time to spot the manta rays. Sad for these special sea creatures? They seem unbothered and can easily swim away. Let’s cherish that!
Later, we snorkel at Gamat Bay, where the underwater world is bursting with colorful marine life. Along the way, we also spot a group of dolphins.
This boat trip can only be booked as an organized tour. There are many options, so choose one that fits your starting point or preferred time.
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After the boat trip, we take a long walk on the beach, have lunch at a cozy beach café, and once again enjoy the peace and the views back at the hotel.
How do you get to Nusa Penida?
Most tourists travel from the popular coastal town of Sanur to Nusa Penida. From here, you can also take a boat to Lembongan if you wish. From Sanur, we had our boat trip to Nusa Penida just after lunch. Everything works a bit differently here than you might be used to in the Netherlands. You enter a terminal where you must pay close attention to whether your boat is being called. Then you hand over your suitcase at the boat and step aboard. If you get seasick easily, always sit at the back – it’s much less rough there.
Several fast boats depart from the port of Sanur to Nusa Penida. We take the boat around midday, which takes about 45 minutes. But don’t underestimate it: the Bali Sea is notorious. Our boat frequently slammed onto the waves, the windows had to be closed, and it quickly became hot inside. Once we arrived at the harbor, we both had shaky sea legs.
Tip: are you traveling through East Bali? Then you can also take a boat from the ports of Padangbai or Kusamba.
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Recommended accommodations on Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida offers a wide range of accommodations, from budget-friendly homestays to luxury resorts. Here are some recommendations:
- Sea La Vie Resort: Located on the beach with a beautiful ocean view. Price range: from €50 per night.
- Semabu Hills Hotel: Offers an infinity pool with ocean views. Price range: from €70 per night.
- Penida Bay Village: Peaceful accommodation close to Crystal Bay. Price range: from €40 per night.
- Bhavana Cottage: Centrally located with a lovely garden and swimming pool. Price range: from €14 per night.
- Atuh Forest Cottage: Unique bamboo cottages near Diamond Beach. Price range: from €30 per night.
Food & relaxation: island hotspots
We discovered several great places to eat and relax on Nusa Penida:
- Secret Penida – Ocean views, extensive menu, great atmosphere.
- The Chill – Similar to Secret Penida, lots of vegetarian & vegan options, small pool.
- Warung Forest – Authentic Indonesian food, friendly staff.
- Amok Sunset – Elevated location with spectacular sunset views (tip: they offer a shuttle).
- Penida Colada – Cocktails, live music, feet in the sand.
- Ombak Café & Huts – For the best smoothie bowls on the island.
Practical tips & travel time
- Best travel time: April to October (dry season)
- Boat rides: buy your tickets at Sanur harbor or online in advance. Expect about €12–15 per person.
- Entrance fees: 5,000 – 25,000 IDR per spot (€0.30 – €1.50), cash only.
- Transport: Unless you’re an experienced scooter driver, choose a private driver.
- No signal: In many parts of the island, you’ll have no phone or internet connection.
- No malaria pills needed, although some maps suggest otherwise.
- Bring some proper snacks: Nusa Penida hardly has proper supermarkets. Unless you love chips & cookies… bring something from Bali.
Is Nusa Penida a must?
Yes. But it’s one you need to prepare for. Bad roads, limited facilities, and no signal – but also: stunning nature, adventurous experiences, and the feeling of truly being on an expedition. Decide for yourself whether this appeals to you – beautiful nature and slightly less luxury than Bali.
Plan at least two nights, and try to book your boat rides or tours in advance. And perhaps more importantly: take it slow. You’re still in a tropical paradise!
Bonus: ending your trip in Sanur
After three nights, we say goodbye to Nusa Penida. The return ferry trip is rough once again – high waves, rattling windows, closed shutters – but luckily, it only lasts 45 minutes.
Upon arrival in Sanur, we receive a warm welcome at Segara Village Hotel. A small cake awaits us in our deluxe room. We relax at the beach bar, enjoy a cocktail (Piña Colada, of course), and take a stroll along the boulevard lined with dozens of restaurants.
In the evening, we have dinner on the beach with live music and even a mini firework show. The next morning, we fly to Flores for the world-famous boat trip to the Komodo Islands. From Sanur, you’re already conveniently close!
