Pura Besakih, also called the Mother Temple, is the largest and most important Hindu temple on Bali. And you can feel that. We visited this beautiful temple during a day trip in East Bali. The location is impressive: against the slope of the active volcano Gunung Agung, the highest mountain on the island. According to the Balinese, this is the spiritual heart of Bali. It is an enormously large complex and therefore a bit touristy, but it is also nice that as a tourist you are so welcome at important Hindu temples in Bali.
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A staircase to heaven
To get to the temple, you first have to go up quite a ways. A long staircase leads you to the heart of the complex, and along the way you already see the first towers, gates and statues appearing. But don’t worry: they also think of the tourist and bring you up with a cart. Once at the top, you immediately get all kinds of things offered to buy (so you can make an offering). It’s up to you whether you go along with it. I unfortunately didn’t take a good photo of it here, because we had mediocre weather. So you’ll have to take my word for it in this blog.
At the top awaits an enormous temple grounds with about 200 buildings, divided over 30 complexes. Some are small and quiet, others large and full of visitors. The oldest part of the temple is said to date from the 14th century, and in the centuries after it was further expanded. As you walk over the stone paths, you really feel that this is a place with history. Balinese have been coming here for generations to pray, bring offerings and attend major ceremonies.
You visit Pura Besakih with a guide
Before you go up, you are first paired with a guide. There are plenty of them at the temple and you have to be lucky with a fun guide. I personally found our guide a bit static. He told everything about the temple briefly and concisely and expected a generous tip afterwards. He even negotiated about it, because he thought my tip was too little at first. Good to know in advance!
Of course he can help you take photos. You have to hope he’s a bit good at that. 😉
A gray splendor
We had already visited quite a few temples during our trip across Bali, so we thought we knew what to expect. Yet Pura Besakih feels different. Most temples here are built with dark lava stones, which gives the atmosphere a mystical and sometimes even slightly ominous feel. Especially when it’s a bit cloudy, the whole gives a gray, almost mysterious appearance. Compared to the colorful Buddhist temples we saw earlier in Thailand, this is much more subdued. No shiny gold, no bright colors, but rather restraint. That has everything to do with the rules within Hinduism, where balance, simplicity and symbolism play a major role. And the longer you walk around, the more you start to see that beauty.
Practical: what do you need to know?
If you want to visit Pura Besakih, there are a few things handy to know in advance. The temple is located in East Bali, on the slope of Gunung Agung. You need an entrance ticket to enter the complex. Usually that includes a shuttle bus from the parking lot (here you find huge parking garages, not what you expect on Bali!), and a sarong and sash that you are required to wear. Without this traditional clothing you may not enter the temple grounds. And as I said earlier: you walk through the complex with a local guide.
The best time to go is early in the morning or late afternoon. Then it is quieter, less hot, and you have the best light for photos. Note: some parts of the temple are only accessible to Hindus. Always follow the signs and respect the rules. It is a sacred place for Balinese!
The drive to Pura Besakih is already beautiful
The drive to Pura Besakih was already a highlight in itself. We drove with our driver Adi from the interior towards East Bali and passed through the most beautiful landscapes along the way. Lush rice fields glistened in the morning sun, dense green tropical forest grew everywhere around us, and the narrow mountain roads wound upwards like a ribbon.
Pura Besakih is perfectly combinable with highlights such as Penglipuran Village (a traditional village in Bali) and Tirta Gangga (a large water garden).
Is it worth it?
Yes, absolutely. Pura Besakih may not be the most photogenic temple in the classic sense. It is also a bit difficult to photograph. For that it lacks the color splendor of, for example, Thai or Cambodian temples. But what you get here is a deep impression of Bali’s spiritual soul. It is a place where rituals still take place daily, where you see Balinese in traditional clothing praying and bringing offerings, and where the bond between man, nature and gods becomes tangible. Also, for Balinese standards, this is a very large area. It is a nice stopover of a few hours to get some of the local culture. Completely different from the well-known temples in the busy south of Bali!
Tip: combine with other highlights
We visited Pura Besakih with our private driver Adi (recommended!). In Bali it is very normal to go out with a private driver (book a tour here for example). You can easily ask for it at your hotel or the first taxi you take in Bali (if they don’t ask you themselves). You can also use apps like the Grab app. This way we could combine the temple with other sights in East Bali. That makes your day nicely varied and you can move on right away when you’re done.
This is how we did our day trip:
- Tirta Gangga: an old water palace with ponds full of fish and stepping stones between fountains.
- Penglipuran Village: The village Penglipuran Village (also called Sangeh Traditional Village) is a village on Bali where you step back into history, but with real people.
More to do:
- Lempuyang Temple: known from the ‘Gates of Heaven’, where you look through a gate with Mount Agung in the background. Do keep in mind that this is very touristy and you may have to stand in line for hours for the perfect photo.
- Waterfalls: there are several waterfalls nearby. So if you’re a fan and plan a route, check Google Maps or ask your driver! This didn’t fit in our day schedule.
Stay near Pura Besakih?
Here are three recommended hotels near Pura Besakih!
💸 Budget: The Hidden Valley
A cozy and simple guesthouse just outside Besakih, with pool and garden, from about € 25 per night.
👉 Check on Booking.com
🏨 Mid-range: Puri Karang Besakih
Quietly located, comfortable rooms and a nice pool, including free parking, from about € 40 per night.
👉 Check on Booking.com
✨ Luxury: Wapa di Ume Sidemen
Luxury resort a bit further away (±23 min drive), with beautiful views, pool and massages, around € 100 per night.
👉 Check on Booking.com
Stay in a dream villa in Lempuyang
We ourselves ended the day a bit further away from Sangeh Traditional Village, namely in Lempuyang. We stayed at the Lempuyang Boutique Hotel, which rightly has the nickname Dream villa. And it was: a villa with a view of rice fields and Mount Agung in the distance. We jumped into the pool, got a bottle of Italian wine from the house, had a romantic dinner and slept under the stars.
Have fun in Bali and at Pura Besakih!
