Christchurch: from earthquake city to vibrant hotspot of New Zealand

Christchurch is the largest city on the South Island and for many travellers the start or endpoint of their round trip through New Zealand. The international airport is located here, so the chance is high that you will end up here anyway. And honestly: our expectations were not high. Christchurch sounded to us mainly like a practical stop after all that nature. But it turns out to be quite a nice city in the end! We were actually surprised by the atmosphere, the creativity (in the many art in the city), the recent history of the earthquake and the great hospitality venues. You can read it in this blog!

The earthquakes of Christchurch and Quake City

In 2010 and 2011 Christchurch was severely hit by earthquakes. On 4 September 2010 the city shook violently on its foundations for the first time with a quake of 7.1 on the Richter scale. The epicentre was near Darfield, 40 km outside the city. Because it happened in the middle of the night, there were miraculously no fatal victims, although more than a hundred people were injured and many buildings suffered severe damage.

Not even half a year later, on 22 February 2011, a new quake of 6.3 followed, this time with the epicentre much closer to the centre. This time there were victims: 185 people lost their lives and large parts of the centre literally collapsed. You can still see traces of that disaster everywhere in the city. Perhaps you know this from the news, because it was quite world news in 2011 when this happened.

We started our day in Christchruch at Quake City Exhibition. This museum tells the story of the earthquake and especially of the people who were involved. How did it go in the first hours and you can also see all kinds of (large) objects that were broken in the museum. Intense, but also interesting to understand how Christchurch has been rebuilt since then. Or is still under construction in many places.

Another impressive place is the 185 White Chairs on Cashel Street. Each of the chairs symbolises one of the victims. All slightly different, just like the people who died. A place to really stop for a moment.

Strolling through the centre

After Quake City we walked into the city. We had had a nice introduction from our hotel managers (who was also on the street on the day of the earthquake and told where he was standing exactly at that moment) and went from our hotel into the city on foot. Once in the centre you could still clearly see, for example, that certain buildings are empty, simply because they are not yet safe. The local church was also still under reconstruction and that would take a while. Everywhere in the city there is still building going on to restore the city. So you see a nice mix of new & old.

• The Terrace – here we sat on Friday afternoon among the locals (or rather: those who are done working), with music and a drink in hand. Super cosy!
• New Regent Street – one of the most beautiful streets in the city, with pastel-coloured houses from 1932 and a historic tram that runs through it.
• Street art – keep your eyes open, because on almost every street corner a colourful mural pops up. Christchurch is now known for it.
• ChristChurch Cathedral (Cathedral Square) – the old cathedral was badly damaged in the 2011 earthquake, but you can still visit the ruins on the central square. Meanwhile, reconstruction has also begun. The square itself is an important meeting place.
• Cardboard Cathedral (also known as Transitional Cathedral) – this is the temporary replacement for the cathedral, designed by the Japanese architect Shigeru Ban. Made of cardboard tubes, glass and steel.
• Bridge of Remembrance – impressive arch bridge that commemorates New Zealand soldiers. Located right in the centre and also a nice photo spot (see below).

On the road with tram or scooter

The centre of Christchurch is compact, but big enough that you don’t want to do everything on foot. Two fun options:

• Lime scooters – you see the electric scooters everywhere. Via the app you grab one and zoom through the city.
• Historic tram – a tram ride of 50 minutes along 17 stops. You can hop on and off all day. Costs about $25, Great for the experience, such an old-fashioned tram!

Botanical gardens & Hagley Park

What surprised us the most? The Christchurch Botanic Gardens. We expected a city park, but this turned out to be a huge green oasis full of palms, flowers and old trees. After weeks of travelling through the nature of New Zealand, we hadn’t had enough of it yet.

Hagley Park itself is also wonderful to walk through or have a picnic. No wonder Christchurch is known as The Garden City.

Tip: rent a bike or go punting on the Avon River, a kind of gondola ride through the gardens. Very relaxing!

Foodie hotspots of Christchurch

After a day of walking we were hungry and in Christchurch you are well taken care of then. Especially around the Riverside Market you can do well. Here you find all the hip hospitality venues and they have a food hall where you should think of the Markthal in Rotterdam. Lots of choice, lots of delicious things to get and you can also get a nice drink there!

• Riverside Market – our favourite! A food hall full of stalls where you can taste all sorts of things. We finished here with an ice cream and saw locals enjoying it just as much as we did.
• Little High Eatery – a cosy food market with kitchens from all over the world: Korean, Thai, Mexican, Japanese. Affordable and tasty.
• Smash Palace – a bar in an old bus, complete with lights, containers and music. Here you come for beer and burgers.

Other things to do in Christchurch

We mainly did the highlights in one day, but there is still much more. We didn’t get to it, but it just depends on what you like!

• Christchurch Gondola – cable car to the Port Hills for a crazy view over the city and the coast.
• Cardboard Cathedral – a unique cathedral made of cardboard and glass, symbol of resilience after the earthquake.
• Canterbury Museum & Art Gallery – fun if you want to see more culture and history.
• International Antarctic Centre – interactive experience of Antarctica, popular with families.
• Day trip to Akaroa – picturesque coastal town an hour’s drive away, known for French influences and dolphin tours.

Or let yourself be inspired by the various tours you can book from Christchurch:

Where to stay in Christchurch

Christchurch is full of hotels and hostels, from simple beds to luxury suites. We ourselves stayed at the Sudima Christchurch City and that was really ideal. You walk straight into the centre and you can safely park your car in their own parking.

Do you want to search for a hotel in another specific place in the city or compare prices? Then check out this handy map.

Tip: stay one night if you see Christchurch mainly as a stopover. If you really want to discover the city, then two nights is more relaxed.

Driving from Tekapo to Christchurch (or vice versa)

We departed from Lake Tekapo (with stargazing at Lake Tekapo before that and the most famous mountain of New Zealand, Mount Cook) towards Christchurch, a drive of almost three hours. Along the way we drove past a few villages and places worth stopping, but it is certainly not the most beautiful stretch of New Zealand.

• Burkes Pass – discovered in 1855 by Europeans. The view opens up to enormous plains that were already used for sheep back then. An unexpected highlight here is Three Creeks, a bizarre mix of retro collectibles, artworks, furniture, classic cars and a 1950s petrol station. Lonely Planet calls it a must see for a reason.
• Geraldine – a charming rural town along the Waihi River. Here you find boutiques full of art and crafts, and the famous Barkers Foodstore and Eatery.
• Rakaia Gorge Bridge – if you take a detour, you come across this wrought-iron bridge from the 1880s. Narrow, old, and with a beautiful view over the turquoise Rakaia River and the Southern Alps. Worth a photo stop!

If you have just driven around the entire South Island, it will take a moment to get used to the traffic slowly getting busier again. If you have just started, good news: the nature gets more and more beautiful!

Christchurch as start or endpoint

For us Christchurch was the last stop of a great trip. We packed our bags, toasted one more time and flew back home the next morning. But Christchurch can also be the start of your adventure. Thanks to the international airport you can easily start your road trip across the South Island here.

As far as we are concerned, Christchurch is a nice city with certainly some recent history and nice hospitality venues. It is creative, green (with the beautiful botanical gardens) and lively, with a mix of history and a modern city. One day is also sufficient, if it were up to us. Nice to dive into the hospitality venues again in a city after you have just driven through the whole country.